Gargantua
and Pantagruel's Monumental Drinking Bouts
If the p1easures
of the flesh u1timate1y prevai1 over wine in Boccaccio' s Decameron, the
p1easures of the table undoubted1y dominate Rabe1ais's Gargantua and
Pantagruel - the presence of food and wine in the book is nothing
short of monumenta1. Rabe1ais quoted the motto Hic bibitur ('They drink
here') at the beginning of Gargantua and Рапtagruel, and remained faithfu1 to it to the very last page.
Ventrem
omnipotentem (the omnipotent
stomach) dominates the entire story. For Rabe1ais's characters, food and, to
an even 1arger extent, drink are а way of learning about and attaining the wor1d. The
two giants Gargantua and Pantagruel have an enormous thirst and capacity for
both sensua1 p1easures in the form of аll kinds of food and drink, and for nobi1ity and
wor1d1y wisdom. This is implied even bу their names. Pantagrue1 means 'а1l thirsty', from 'panta' ('а1l' in Greek) and 'grue1' ('thirsty' in the Hagarene language).
Gargantua was
thus named bу
his father Grangousier (' great throat' in French) because, as soon as he was
born, he cried out with а high, sturdy and big voice, 'Some drink, some drink,
some drink.'* Upon hearing this, the happy father exclaimed: 'How great and
nimble а throat thou hast', and the son was called Gargantua
because it was the first word that his father had spoken after his birth. The
sumptuous victuals arranged like а cavalcade, often covering whole pages, are
invariably washed down lavishly with white, rose and red wine from various
parts of France.
The food and
wine in the feast scenes make the characters of this phantasmagoria life-like
and realistic. It is worth noting that Rabelais, who parodies everything
around him - science, the law, government, the Church and religion - treats
food with reverence and deference, and wine, in particular, almost with
veneration. 1n the words of Вacbuc, the High Priestess of the Holy Bottle: 'here we
hold not that laughing, but that drinking is the distinguishing character of mаn. I don't say drinking, taking that word singly and
absolutely in the strictest sense; nо, beasts then might put in for а share; I mеаn drinking cool delicious wine.
For уоu must know, mу beloved, that bу wine we bесоmе divine; neither саn there bе а surer argument or а less deceitful divination.' 1n his Prologue to the
Third Book, Rabelais addressed his readers: 'Good people, most illustrious
drinkers, and уоu,
thrice precious gouty gentlemen ... уоu are not young, which is а соmреtent quality for уоu to philosophate more than physically in wine, not
in vain, and hence forwards to bе of the Bacchic Council; to the end that, opining
there, уоu mау give your opinion faithfully of the substance,
colour, excellent odour, eminency, propriety, faculty, virtue, and effectual
dignity of the said blessed and desired liquor.
' These words
prove beyond doubt that we саn find а true oenologist in the sixteenth century. I never
drink without thirst, either present or future. То prevent it, as уоu know, I drink for the thirst to соте. I drink etemally. This is to mе аn etemity of drinking, and drinking of etemity,'
Grangousier explains. 'О companion! if I could mount uр as well as I саn get [wine] down [mу throat], 1 had bееп long ere this аbоvе the sphere of the moon with Empedocles,' the cunning
and witty Panurge says. When the storyline proves too limited to accommodate аll outbursts of gastronomic ecstasy, the author
inserts parody titles of imaginary books, such as The Prickle о/тпе, The Spur о/ Cheese, О/ Peas aпd Васоп, сит Commeпto, The Teeth-chatter or Gum-didder о/ Lubberly Lusks, The Hotchpot о/ Hypocrites, The Вibbiпgs о/ the Тippliпg Вishops, and manу
others in the same vеin. .
And because I
mean to bе а skinker nо longer, bу keeping wine to please any other palate but mine own,
I have sent уоu
half mу store, and hereafter think of mе as уоu shall please. ' Messer Geri realised what the baker
had been trying to tell him аll along and thanked him, 'accepting him always after
as his intimate friend'. That was how wine and, more specifically, the attitude
to wine reduced the social gap between the gentleman and the baker.
In а delicate but resolute manner, Cistio succeeded in
drawing Messer Geri into the orbit of his ethical concept of wine and making
him accept it. The implications are clear: the honour of drinking good wine is
the preserve of those who bear their fate honourably. Good wine is а characteristic attribute of honour, irrespective of
whether one is а nobleman or а tradesman. Honour and nobility, as
Boccaccio frequently implied, are not exclusive to either noblemen or
commoners. This condition of the soul, as this story elegantly proves, is
reflected in one's attitude to wine.
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